Finger strength training climbing reddit. Finger Strength Training : r/climbharder.

Finger strength training climbing reddit. Jun 25, 2020 · To obtain the best results, follow the detailed instructions on how to use the Finger Strength Climbing Analyzer in the sections below. Dedicated to increasing all our knowledge about how to better improve at our sport. This involves a hard session of fingerboard and campus board and pinch grip exercises done in a sort of superset rotation. Note: This is just an automatic bouldering level assessment. My forearms like they’re getting stronger but my fingers feel stagnant. Here are tips for hangboarding your way to finger strength. Also notice how the excersises work the antagonistic (opposing) muscles in your hands and forearms, this helps to prevent repetitive strain injuries. Any advice for training finger strength further? Due to my work schedule, actually climbing about once a week is pretty much the most I can do. You'll train finger strength by climbing problems that are too difficult for you at the moment. Hangboarding seems very unnecessary at a v5 level. This is an INCREDIBLY simplified view of capacity, recovery, maximal gains accounting when training for climbing-- with only 3 variables instead of 10+, no discussion of the real world (life stress, work, diet, sleep), social context, strength in any other system than fingers. Sure maybe low volume hangboard could be beneficial and further improve your finger strength but the risk of overdue / training incorrectly isn't near as beneficial as just climbing more and learn how to effectively use it. I recently got the Metolius rock rings and have been using those regularly but can’t seem to get past the 4 finger hang. Hangboards and no hang devices are the best substitutes for long periods of no climbing, 6 weeks is actually a great timeframe for a training cycle too! There are tons of protocols out Reddit's rock climbing training community. You strengthen your finger flexors when you climb, so when you’re not climbing, work on your extensors. See full list on trainingforclimbing. Training your crushing grip strength as part of a well rounded hand/forearm prehab/strength protocol is great, training it as a substitute for climbing is not. Nov 9, 2022 · Managing finger strength training as a climber can be confusing, what to do what not to do? In this blog we clear the fog and keep it simple. But most finger strength training research uses 22-25mm edges, and these edge depths, especially the 25mm, make more sense for recruitment than smaller edges. Beginners will definitely benefit from the extra gains, just be careful to give your connective tissues plenty of time to adjust. What is an efficient way to train finger strength for a climbing beginner who has a decent amount of pulling strength from Callisthenics (1. Mar 10, 2023 · For most climbers, certainly the trained ones, finger training has tended to mean doing weighted hangs on a 20mm edge for either 7 or 10 seconds. What will help you best is learning technique. com Feb 17, 2023 · I train climbing grip strength one day a week only. I’d like some feedback on integrating hangboarding to my climbing/training routine. Your grip strength is determined by forearm strength and the tendons in your fingers, hands and wrists. I think this is likely true from a statistical sense. This will increase fore arm strength and wrist stability. . Mar 26, 2025 · Every climber wants stronger fingers, but few really know how to power up. 62x BW 1rm chinup and working on OAC) ? Edit: thank you for everyone who seriously answered! The crux of the "climbing as primarily a strength sport" idea is that most people can acquire the climbing skill over enough time to climb hard (lets say V-double digit) but many fewer people will be able to build that appropriate amount of elite finger and hand strength. edit: I just wanted to point out that in trying to make the point that isometric training is generally preferable for climbing I implied that it doesn't train your muscles. Do a lot of push exercises as well to prevent injury. You’re still brand new to climbing and tendons take a lot longer to get stronger than muscle. Reddit's rock climbing training community. Technique should be your main focus and some strength training around climbing specific muscle groups. Find a problem in your gym that is particularly finger-y and work it regularly - you'll find improvements in strength but also in technique and body position as you learn how to make a difficult climb easier. Finger Strength Training : r/climbharder. There’s plenty of finger extensor trainers available for cheap. hgc tvnxvt vvdsa nqbfzw izmnr pggtf jobpw mcxu zskkl kjfz